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Common Olympus XA repairs
The Olympus XA series is small, clever and nearly 50 years old. Most cameras that reach my bench have one or more of the faults below, and many of them can be fixed.
Light seal replacement for the Olympus XA series
The foam seals in the back door turn to sticky crumbs with age and let light streak across your film. I remove the old foam and residue, then fit new seals. More →
Metering problems and long exposures
If the shutter stays open too long in daylight, or the XA's needle doesn't move, the CdS light cell or its solder joints are usually at fault. More →
Shutter won't fire or fires unreliably
The XA's electronic shutter is held by two small release magnets. Dirt, old lubricant or a sticky set spring stops it releasing. Cleaning usually brings it back. More →
Winding, film advance and frame counter
A stiff thumbwheel, a counter that skips, or a rewind knob that won't stay down is usually a sticky or worn part in the advance train. More →
No power and battery corrosion
Leaking batteries corrode the terminals and the thin negative wire behind them. Cleaning sometimes works; often the wire needs replacing and re-soldering. More →
Lens and focus issues (limited)
I only occasionally clean lenses for fungus or haze, and for now only on the XA2. Results depend on how badly the fungus has marked the glass, so a clear lens isn't guaranteed. Get in touch first and I'll tell you if it's worth trying. If your camera has a focus issue, get in touch and we can explore options.
Flash sync and A11/A16 flashes
If the flash won't fire from the camera, the sync contacts may be shorted or bent. I sometimes repair A11 and A16 flash units, but it's rarely economical. A working replacement flash usually costs less than the repair.
Cosmetic parts
Cracked bottom plates, corroded film doors, missing battery caps and broken rewind knobs can be replaced from my stock of original Olympus parts.
Frequently asked questions
Can my Olympus XA be fixed if the shutter won't fire?
Usually, yes. Most non-firing shutters I see come from dirty release magnets or a sticky set spring, and cleaning fixes them. A small number trace back to a failed integrated circuit (IC) chip, often damaged by leaking batteries, and those can't be repaired.
Can every XA be repaired?
No. Some faults come from a failed integrated circuit (IC) chip, the camera's main control chip. IC faults can't be repaired and replacement chips aren't made, so those cameras can't be brought back.
Why does my XA2 take long exposures in daylight?
Usually the CdS light cell has drifted or lost its connection. Many come back with cleaning and re-soldering, then calibration against a reference meter. New CdS cells are no longer available, so a cell that has failed outright can't always be fixed. If you suspect a CdS problem, get in touch and we can talk through the options.
Do you replace light seals?
Yes. New seals go into nearly every camera I service, because the original foam has degraded on almost all of them.
My camera has no power even with new batteries. Is it dead?
Not necessarily. Corroded battery terminals or a broken negative wire are the usual cause, and both can be repaired.
Which batteries does the XA use?
Two SR44 (silver oxide) cells. I strongly recommend SR44 over LR44 alkalines: SR44s hold a steady voltage until they're nearly empty, which keeps the meter accurate, while LR44 voltage sags as they drain and can throw off exposures. Take the batteries out if you store the camera, because leaking batteries cause most of the corrosion I repair.
Do you test with film?
Yes. Repaired cameras are checked against a reference meter, and many get a test roll before they go back.
Do you repair A11 and A16 flashes?
Sometimes, but it's rarely economical. The repair usually costs more than a working A11 or A16 sells for, so I generally recommend buying a working unit instead.
How do I get a quote?
Email xa.35mm@gmail.com with the model, serial number and symptoms. I reply with a diagnostic fee and estimate. No work starts until you approve the written quote.
Email me your camera model, its serial number and what it’s doing. I’ll reply with a diagnostic fee and an estimate before you ship. No work starts until you approve the written quote.
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